Overheating Causes

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Note:     05 August 1991
Service Bulletin Number:     #195
Model:     5432
Subject:     Heat Exchanger #299049

Early versions (1978 to 1983) of the Universal 5432 or Westerbeke M40 marine propulsion engines were configured with a two inch diameter heat exchanger P/N 299049. Later and current production models have a three inch diameter heat exchanger P/N 299835.

Complaints have been received from the field on some of the above early model engines regarding high water operating temperatures (above 190 degrees F). Complaints of overheating when operating the engine at high or maximum rated engine RPM.

These complaints are possibly related to the heat exchanger size used on these early models. One should keep in mind that there are other components and areas of the engine's cooling system that could cause or contribute to high operating temperatures and overheating. These are:

1. Supply hose to the raw water pump. Hose should be wire reinforced and routed to avoid sharp bends.

2. The raw water supply hose inside diameter should be as large as a standard hose nipple will allow the raw water pump to accept without bushing up. i.e. pump inlet 1/2" npt standard nipple will accept 3/4" ID hose.

3. Raw water pump internal wear and impeller fatigue.

4. Reduced flow of raw water and/or fresh water through the heat exchanger due to corrosion, scale or debris inside the exchanger.

5. Internal corrosion of the water injected exhaust elbow causing raw water flow restrictions.

6. Domestic hot water heater improperly plumbed into the engines fresh water circuit.


If these areas 1 - 6 have been inspected and any faults that are found are corrected and overheating still occurs, it is recommended that the operator consider replacing the two inch diameter heat exchanger P/N 299049 with the three inch diameter heat exchanger P/N 299835. 

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To see Sankaty's new 6 GPM Sherwood raw water pump,Click Here   The new pump considerably decreased the top temperature, but not enough.  One should measure the flow once a year or so at 1000 RPM, and if it decreases you'll know there is a problem.

Sankaty moved the water heater from in series with the heat exchanger to the Thermostat by pass circuit.  Click here for a graph showing the dramatic improvement. that cost less than $30 in parts.   The max temperature is now 185 after 15 minutes at top RPM in still air and seas.  After one hour at 7 knots its still only 188 degrees.

Sankaty would still like to get it down to 165 degrees; so she may end up ordering the three inch heat exchanger also.


The domestic hot water heater needs to be
plumbed into the
thermostat by pass circuit.
Click here to see how the water heater was done on Sankaty

Click here for the   3 inch heat exchanger from Westerbeke through Torresen in Muskegon, MI

Some folks have decreased the pitch of their propellers to eliminate overheating at high RPM.  It also helped them move faster when going against high head winds. 

Others have found that at high speed the water covered the exhaust and the increased back pressure caused over heating.  They found that adding a piece of hose to raise the exhaust solved their problem.  On my boat the water comes right up to the exhaust, but does not cover it.  

In addition some have found that their exhaust elbows have very excessive carbon build up that is difficult to remove and often cured by replacing the elbow. 
Don't forget to tighten your fan belt as it drives the fresh water pump.
Yet another reported that barnacles on the prop caused overheating.

Another said he disconnected the salt water hose from the thru-hull fitting and place it in a bucket mixed with one part swimming pool acid with five parts fresh water and run it through the the engine. Let it stand for a few minutes then run the remainder of the acid mixture.   Reported it worked great.

Then there is always the bad head gasket that can froth up the coolant as it pumps air into the coolant system and causes it to overflow.  Frothy coolant has poor heat transfer capability as air has very little heat capacity.   For fun click here for pressure cap animation and a whole bunch of other neat things on cooling systems in cars
This page created on July 20, 2002
This page was last updated on: January 4, 2017
Click here to return to What Failed on the Trip and/or later
I understand that 7/8 inch exhaust hose is available with wire reinforcement, and hose lengths are available from Westerbeke see parts list manual P/N 200147. page 42
or from hose kits at Torresen.com
Originally, the water heater hose went from the tank above the Exhaust Manifold to the water heater and then from the water heater to the heat exchanger. Then from the heat exchanger to the engine near the front with a two foot long hose.   This means that the water heater was in series with the heat exchanger creating excess restriction to the flow of coolant in the heat exchanger.

Below is the original series connection.  How not to do it.
Click here to go to the Thermostat By Pass implementation photos.