1. The hose barb for the water pump input is cast as an integral part of the flange so it is not practical to put on one of the brass 3/8" pipe to 5/8" hose elbows.
2. Used a 90 degree plastic elbow, from ACE hardware, with 1/2" barbs on both ends. Inserted one end into a short hose on the original cast barb to keep the hose as low as practical. Rather than connecting vertically and bending the hose back to horizontal.
3. Running the engine for an hour at idle, only achieved warm water, not hot, although the engine temp did reach 160 degrees.
4. Running the engine under load for a half hour, around the lake, achieved hot water.
5. With the electric 110 line, had very hot water in less than half an hour.
6. The bottom of the overflow container is six inches higher than engine so that Water heater/Engine has more than enough coolant even though the water heater connections are at the same height as the thermostat
The owner of this MD40 can be reached at
John lives in Orlando, FL and has a 1973 Coronado 32 ctrctkp and he just loves the boat. It has central air conditioning with a heat pump. The engine is a 32 HP Universal that was installed in 1983 by a previous owner. The water heater is aForce 10, stainless, six gallon, both electric and engine heated.
Note: At idle Sankaty's 32 HP Universal 5432 reaches top operating temperature in one hour. See chart of temperature rise by clicking here.
A 1982, 32 hp Universal MD40 Owner's experience with installing a water heater into the Thermostat By Pass
February 10, 2003
Page created February 10, 2003
This page was last updated: January 4, 2017
