IIT Jabsco PAR 36800-1000 (3.3GPM 20-40 psi) water pump similar to -2000
It was on the boat when bought bought her in 1999 and in 2006 I had to replace the motor (about $90 plus installation). It stalled several times as it got to the high pressure end as if the pressure switch stopped opening at high pressure. The motor, needless to say got very, very hot (burn skin off hot). I modified the pressure switch to open at a lower pressure and added the recommended 6.25A slow blow fuse. That worked fine for about the first three days of our next little cruise, and then it started to blow fuses as it started to stall again. I assume something is jamming up the pumping mechanism causing the motor to stall before it gets to enough pressure to open the pressure sensing switch. I had one of the $60 service kits that came with the boat, and that worked. There was a lot of aluminum like particles in the pump.
I am thinking of replacing the pump with one of the newer FloJet R4515-743 units, a variable speed drive pump that does not need an accumulator and probably runs a lot quieter, but it requires a 15 amp circuit breaker and I think the ones I have are only 10 amp. Jabsco informed me via e-mail that the standby current of these $140 units, will be 40ma or 1 Amp Hour per Day. Bill, a very respected Mariner 36, owner got a FloJet and is tickled pink with it. Tim Pruss a fellow with a Tayana Mariner 36 got the 4.5 GPM model and loves it too.
A review of the user comments on the West Marine site for the 4.5 GPM Jabsco Sensor Max 17 indicates it is crucial to remove accumulators in the existing system, and one should minimize the use of the circuit breaker ( sounds a bit like a non-robust system with inadequate noise suppression on the power input).. Folks are going to cycle the power to the water system. eg Who does not disconnect the batteries when leaving the boat at the mooring? When anchored at night or when sailing without the engine, I turn off everything that I don't need. I suspect that the circuit breaker state change will be most harsh when the motor is running at near top speed. It is probably impossible to sell 7000 units without some negative feedback.
I got nice responses at sailnet indicating that the FloJet units are very good units.
What about ShurFlo they have one with higher flow that I don't want. click here.
Defender shows attractive prices on a 4 GPM, four chamber, ShurFlo. Don't know what intermittent duty means (no long showers or no wash down applications). West Marineindicates ShurFlo is no princess. Click here for a nice little article on adding a ShurFlo to a Catalina 36 from the Catalina 36 International Association. The ShurFlo installation guide indicates that the "Pump draws 15 milliamps continually when pump switch is on" on the 4 GPM unit;, but does not indicate that it is suitable for Marine usage (ignition proof electrical housing and motor).
Both of our 52 gallon aluminum tanks are now corroded beyond repair, With the aluminum tanks I constantly have to remove the little particles out of the strainers that are screwed into the two vanity faucets and the galley faucet. In addition, the original metal, 3/4" diverter valve for the spray hose in the galley had to be replaced as I just could not get it to move freely any more even after soaking it in Lime Away over night. It is a Delex faucet and the new plastic diverter valve from Delta works fine so far.
Bill, a fellow Mariner 36 owner said "We have a filter but since replacing our aluminum tanks with plastic, we don't get the filter clogged anymore". As long as I have the aluminum tanks I'll look into adding the strainer to the input of the pump.
Aug 26t, 2006, I overhauled the old Jabsco PAR pump. That looks like it pretty much eliminated stalled motor condition when nearing top pressure ( cutout pressure ). Saved a few buck with the rebuild route. One of the chambers was pretty full of the little flakes from the aluminum water tanks and the internal rubber absorbers looked a pretty beat up, but nothing leaked. It is a bit of a mystery to me. The lines don't hammer anymore when it gets to full pressure.
I will get a strainer and put it into the pumps input line, that should solve the other problem of constantly plugging up the screens on the three main faucets.
June 2013, still don't have the strainer and Pump is stalling when Battery is running low. The low pressure replacement switch that I wished for is useless. Often had to tap it to start pumping and at 20 psi I could not even get the spray nozzel to work
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